I have been to Costa Rica 13 times at this point in my life, far and away my most visited international travel spot. There are many reasons I have traveled there so frequently, and stayed so long; the amazing surf, abundant wildlife, pura vida mindset/culture, its proximity to the US and of course, the diversity of places to visit all in a country about the size of West Virginia (also a place well worth exploring). Tropical rainforests, beautiful beaches, soaring mountains, inland lakes, multiple volcanoes (some still active), cloud forests, stunning cattle ranches and the list goes on. But something many do not associate with Costa Rica is that it has 125 miles of interesting, and stunning, Caribbean coastline.
Puerto Viejo is the main town along the Caribbean coast, and a good launching point for the many adventures to be had in the region. Viejo itself is a laid-back beach town with a distinctly Caribbean/slightly Jamaican feel. With residents of both Afro-Caribbean and indigenous descent, Viejo offers a unique culture that can be found only in this part of Costa Rica, a place where reggae is not just a music genre, but also a way of life for some of the locals.
With some of the most beautiful beaches, lush jungles with many access points, abundant wildlife (literally everywhere you look) and an array of restaurants and nightlife, it is no surprise that this part of Costa Rica is now becoming a popular destination.
Intro
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is in southeastern Costa Rica, close to the Panama border. The small downtown, where many of the area restaurants, bars, and shops are concentrated, is conveniently located next to the beach. The road out of town paralleling the coast leads to several smaller communities like Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, Playa Punta Uva, and Manzanillo. These towns each have their own restaurants, beaches, and other amenities but are more spread out.
Getting There
I like to rent a car to explore, but there are shuttles and buses. The drive from San Jose to Viejo is about four hours, you’ll think it’s less but traffic, mostly due to the port in Limon – a major bypass for the Panama Canal – is always a constant. There’s a national park in the mountains on the way with some amazing hikes and isolated camping, if you would like to break up the trip. Once you reach Limon, the road follows the coast south, first passing the airport there, which may or may not be open, the government has closed it in the past to help stem the flow of any “illegal” substances that may travel nearby. The coastal route is a breeze compared to the mountain road, and you won’t find much in the way of services until Cahuita.
Once in or around Viejo, thyou arrive, you have a few options for getting around. One of the most popular is to rent a bicycle. The road that runs between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo is often a bike superhighway, with more bicycles than cars. If you’re staying outside of Puerto Viejo, though, a rental most popular, and practical way to get around is bicycle, a car is nice to have but bikes are more fun. There’s also a bus that runs between Viejo and Manzanillo.
Stuff to Do
Puerto Viejo has something for everyone. Wildlife watching, surfing, horseback riding, turtle watching, night hikes, waterfalls, fishing, yoga, and Caribbean food or dance lessons are just a few of the activities.
Beaches
The biggest draw in Viejo for me is its beautiful beaches. Along the road that runs to Manzanillo are smaller dirt roads that lead to secluded beaches, each with their own distinct feel. Playa Negra in Puerto Viejo is a black sand beach that is usually calm enough for swimming. Playa Cocles to the south is a surfing beach that, while not the best for swimming due to rip currents, is maybe the best place to hang out and people watch. Punta Uva is also a favorite, and has more a tropical look and feel, including great snorkeling in the crystal-clear water.
Surfing
Puerto Viejo has long attracted surfers with its famous “Salsa Brava” break, long alleged to be Costa Rica’s most powerful wave, which breaks off the shallow reef in Viejo. The swells must be high for this to be working, so don’t be surprised if it’s not when your there. It was going off on my third visit, and really gave us a thrill…the power, and sound of the beach break at Hermosa with the length of some of the better waves at Nosara…but there is a reef below, so be careful!
For the beginner surfer, or if you’re just looking for a good time, check out the beach break at Playa Cocles for consistent swells, its right in front of the Cariblue, and there’s usually two setups for board rentals.
Snorkeling/Diving
When conditions are right, some of the beaches south of Viejo can be awesome for snorkeling. At Punta Uva, you can snorkel right off the beach. Manzanillo farther south also has an impressive shallow reef for snorkeling and diving.
Fishing
This is the perfect place to toss in a line. Small-boat charters leave from the calm cove in Viejo to explore reefs and river outlets to the south. A popular combo tour allows you to troll for sport fish like wahoo or tuna but also fits in some dolphin-watching and snorkeling. A more authentic option lets you tag along in a local skiff to help reel in snapper and grouper, which are sold to local restaurants.
Horseback Riding
Horseback riding tours are popular in Viejo and for good reason. You can explore the surrounding jungle and find hidden beaches. A good guide will point out wildlife along the way and teach you about the forest.
Chocolate Tour
A visit to CariBeans will surely get your mouth watering. Here, you can walk the cacao forest and learn how they make bean-to-bar chocolate using locally sourced, fair trade cacao. Be sure to visit the tasting room before you leave to sample the many flavors of chocolate produced.
Visit an Indigenous Community
Dig deeper into the southern Caribbean’s culture with a visit to one of the several BriBri indigenous communities. Learn about their local customs, language, traditions, and methods of farming. Some tours have a chocolate-making component where you might get to try some of their sacred cacao drink, while others take you to hidden waterfalls.
Jaguar Rescue Center
This is an absolute must!!! Visit the Jaguar Rescue Center, a wildlife rehabilitation center in Chiquita that’s doing amazing work for injured animals. Guides who work directly with the animals will teach you all about the residents, which may include monkeys, sloths, margay (pictured below), parrots, toucans, and other jungle creatures. On a tour, you’ll learn how the animals ended up in the Center and their plans for release, while getting up close and personal. Night walks of the release site are also possible, and totally worth it!
Sloth Sanctuary
On the road North or town, this is also a must see. Buttercup is the long-term resident in the visitor center and they have an interesting tour that takes you via canoe on the rover behind the sanctuary.
Manzanillo
Along with Cahuita, an actual Caribbean town that’s almost devoid of tourists. If you’re going to the park nearby, stop by Maxis or a beer, or go upstairs for a killer meal, you’ll feel like a local.
Cahuita National Park
The village of Cahuita, about 16 km north of Puerto Viejo, is worth visiting on a day trip. In addition to soaking up the small-town feel, the national park in Cahuita is a favorite. The 1,097-hectare park is mostly jungle set along the sea. On the flat, sandy trail, you can frequently spot eyelash pit viper snakes, sloths, howler monkeys, white-nosed coatis, and many types of birds. The park also hosts several beaches and a protected coral reef just offshore, which can be snorkeled with a guide.
The Ara Project
The Ara Project is a small organization in Costa Rica working to help reestablish the population of macaw parrots. Their site in Manzanillo works with Great Green Macaws. These birds were once in abundance in the southern Caribbean, but due to habitat loss and a lack of food, they have nearly become extinct. On a tour of the facility, you will be able to get close to these amazing birds.
Bocas del Toro, Panama
If you have an extra few nights in your itinerary and want to see another country, Panama’s Bocas del Toro is close. The Bocas have an even more laid-back Caribbean feel than Puerto Viejo. They offer many white sand beaches with clear water that is great for snorkeling and swimming. Those looking for a party scene will find it in Bocas Town. Shuttles run daily from the Puerto Viejo area.
Where to Eat
Viejo has a huge restaurant scene, with well over 100 establishments to choose from scattered along the road from Viejo to Manzanillo. Because people come to live here from all around the world, you will find a range of international cuisine.
La Pecora Nera
The dinner menu offers classics like homemade ravioli and spaghetti carbonara as well as innovative dishes like starfruit and shrimp carpaccio.
Stashu’s Con Fusion
Stashu’s Con Fusion is amazing and one of Viejo’s best-known restaurants. Dishes come with delicious sauces (a lot of curries but they have other things too). This is a particularly good place for vegetarians and vegans, though meat and seafood choices are also plentiful.
La Nena
No visit to Puerto Viejo is complete without some authentic Caribbean cuisine. La Nena is a simple restaurant on the main road in Playa Cocles that serves up Costa Rican classics with Caribbean flare. Passion fruit salad dressing, rice and beans with coconut milk, and spicy tomato sauces make for an authentic taste.
Restaurante Amimodo
We were attracted by its location right on the beach, but the food was solid as well. We loved our thin crust pizza, but they also have many other dishes with pasta, organic chicken, and local fish.
KOKi Beach Restaurant
This hip, yes, it actually is, restaurant and lounge is in a great location, directly across from the beach in Puerto Viejo. KOKi Beach is usually one of the busiest places in town. The cool vibe draws a diverse crowd looking for a fun spot to kick back. Grab a cocktail in one of the comfy rocking chairs, or enjoy a full meal in the dining room. The menu here is big, with steaks, burgers, pastas, fish dishes, and more.
Tasty Waves Cantina
If you’re checking out Playa Cocles, Tasty Waves is a fun spot to grab a beer and casual food. This chill bar is run by a group of guys from the US and tends to draw a younger crowd. They do happy hour specials daily and have events like trivia night, karaoke night, and movie night. Tuesdays are big with 2-for-1 tacos, and they often have live music. This is my go to to grab a beer.
Bread and Chocolate
They do breakfast all day, or you can get one of their delicious sandwiches made with fresh-baked bread. The roast beef and jerk chicken BBQ sandwiches were memorable. Be sure to save room for dessert. The locals running this place make their own chocolate truffles and cakes with locally grown cacao.
Places to Stay
Hotels in Viejo tend to be smaller, many with four rooms or less. There are no chains and most accommodations are tucked neatly away in the jungle. Many options are typical Caribbean-style bungalows made of wood. These often have window shutters and are open air (no A/C). Those prone to insect bites should make sure that their room is sealed or has mosquito nets over the beds. If you want to be close to amenities, stay in Puerto Viejo center, where everything is within walking distance. If you like a quieter setting, you will probably prefer the peaceful jungle of Cocles, Chiquita, Punta Uva, or Manzanillo.
Be sure that your hotel room is locked when you leave. Break-ins do sometimes happen in the Puerto Viejo area, unfortunately.
Kalunai Hostel
Located in downtown Puerto Viejo, it offers a few affordable private rooms and some dorms. The spaces are clean and have comfortable beds. There’s also an outdoor kitchen and hammocks. $35 or less/night
Hotel Boutique Indalo
This hotel is a good value for the area, especially if you prefer air conditioning. It has modern, comfortable rooms. $65-95/night double occ.
Villa Finca Chica
The villas are nicely spread out around the rainforest-covered property. Although they are located outside town in Playa Cocles, Viejo is only a quick taxi or bike ride away. Each has its own kitchen for cooking in. $90 for 2-person villa.
Caribe Town
This small hotel has a handful of charming palm-thatched bungalows surrounded by gardens as well as a few larger houses nearby. The hosts were very friendly and served one of the best breakfasts we have ever had. $100
La Kukula Lodge
It offers modern, industrial-style rooms as well as a whole house for larger groups. Because the property is situated off the main road and is thickly vegetated, wildlife is often seen. $90-130 double occupancy.
Hotel Banana Azul
Banana Azul is one of the nicer hotels in Puerto Viejo, but it stays true to the area with a laid back feel. Accommodations vary widely, from wooden ocean-view rooms above the restaurant to separate bungalows and new villas with plunge pools. Most rooms don’t have A/C, but the ocean breeze is enough for most people. Banana Azul is located north of town and is adults only. $70-200 double occupancy.
Le Chameleon Boutique Hotel
The only high-end option in the area is Le Chameleon Boutique Hotel. In Playa Cocles, it offers spacious rooms with minimalist décor. The white-washed rooms surround a gorgeous pool with tall palm trees. A major draw is the beach club across the street, where you can have food and drinks delivered to your chair. $175-250 double occupancy.
Puerto Viejo is unlike any other destination in Costa Rica. It combines beauty and culture in a way that no other place has for us. From the pristine beaches, lush rainforest, and plentiful wildlife, to the vibrant, laid back culture, Puerto Viejo always leaves us wanting more.
I have been to Costa Rica 13 times at this point in my life, far and away my most visited international travel spot. There are many reasons I have traveled there so frequently, and stayed so long; the amazing surf, abundant wildlife, pura vida mindset/culture, its proximity to the US and of course, the diversity of places to visit all in a country about the size of West Virginia (also a place well worth exploring). Tropical rainforests, beautiful beaches, soaring mountains, inland lakes, multiple volcanoes (some still active), cloud forests, stunning cattle ranches and the list goes on. But something many do not associate with Costa Rica is that it has 125 miles of interesting, and stunning, Caribbean coastline.
Puerto Viejo is the main town along the Caribbean coast, and a good launching point for the many adventures to be had in the region. Viejo itself is a laid-back beach town with a distinctly Caribbean/slightly Jamaican feel. With residents of both Afro-Caribbean and indigenous descent, Viejo offers a unique culture that can be found only in this part of Costa Rica, a place where reggae is not just a music genre, but also a way of life for some of the locals.
With some of the most beautiful beaches, lush jungles with many access points, abundant wildlife (literally everywhere you look) and an array of restaurants and nightlife, it is no surprise that this part of Costa Rica is now becoming a popular destination.
Intro
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is in southeastern Costa Rica, close to the Panama border. The small downtown, where many of the area restaurants, bars, and shops are concentrated, is conveniently located next to the beach. The road out of town paralleling the coast leads to several smaller communities like Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, Playa Punta Uva, and Manzanillo. These towns each have their own restaurants, beaches, and other amenities but are more spread out.
Getting There
I like to rent a car to explore, but there are shuttles and buses. The drive from San Jose to Viejo is about four hours, you’ll think it’s less but traffic, mostly due to the port in Limon – a major bypass for the Panama Canal – is always a constant. There’s a national park in the mountains on the way with some amazing hikes and isolated camping, if you would like to break up the trip. Once you reach Limon, the road follows the coast south, first passing the airport there, which may or may not be open, the government has closed it in the past to help stem the flow of any “illegal” substances that may travel nearby. The coastal route is a breeze compared to the mountain road, and you won’t find much in the way of services until Cahuita.
Once in or around Viejo, thyou arrive, you have a few options for getting around. One of the most popular is to rent a bicycle. The road that runs between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo is often a bike superhighway, with more bicycles than cars. If you’re staying outside of Puerto Viejo, though, a rental most popular, and practical way to get around is bicycle, a car is nice to have but bikes are more fun. There’s also a bus that runs between Viejo and Manzanillo.
Stuff to Do
Puerto Viejo has something for everyone. Wildlife watching, surfing, horseback riding, turtle watching, night hikes, waterfalls, fishing, yoga, and Caribbean food or dance lessons are just a few of the activities.
Beaches
The biggest draw in Viejo for me is its beautiful beaches. Along the road that runs to Manzanillo are smaller dirt roads that lead to secluded beaches, each with their own distinct feel. Playa Negra in Puerto Viejo is a black sand beach that is usually calm enough for swimming. Playa Cocles to the south is a surfing beach that, while not the best for swimming due to rip currents, is maybe the best place to hang out and people watch. Punta Uva is also a favorite, and has more a tropical look and feel, including great snorkeling in the crystal-clear water.
Surfing
Puerto Viejo has long attracted surfers with its famous “Salsa Brava” break, long alleged to be Costa Rica’s most powerful wave, which breaks off the shallow reef in Viejo. The swells must be high for this to be working, so don’t be surprised if it’s not when your there. It was going off on my third visit, and really gave us a thrill…the power, and sound of the beach break at Hermosa with the length of some of the better waves at Nosara…but there is a reef below, so be careful!
For the beginner surfer, or if you’re just looking for a good time, check out the beach break at Playa Cocles for consistent swells, its right in front of the Cariblue, and there’s usually two setups for board rentals.
Snorkeling/Diving
When conditions are right, some of the beaches south of Viejo can be awesome for snorkeling. At Punta Uva, you can snorkel right off the beach. Manzanillo farther south also has an impressive shallow reef for snorkeling and diving.
Fishing
This is the perfect place to toss in a line. Small-boat charters leave from the calm cove in Viejo to explore reefs and river outlets to the south. A popular combo tour allows you to troll for sport fish like wahoo or tuna but also fits in some dolphin-watching and snorkeling. A more authentic option lets you tag along in a local skiff to help reel in snapper and grouper, which are sold to local restaurants.
Horseback Riding
Horseback riding tours are popular in Viejo and for good reason. You can explore the surrounding jungle and find hidden beaches. A good guide will point out wildlife along the way and teach you about the forest.
Chocolate Tour
A visit to CariBeans will surely get your mouth watering. Here, you can walk the cacao forest and learn how they make bean-to-bar chocolate using locally sourced, fair trade cacao. Be sure to visit the tasting room before you leave to sample the many flavors of chocolate produced.
Visit an Indigenous Community
Dig deeper into the southern Caribbean’s culture with a visit to one of the several BriBri indigenous communities. Learn about their local customs, language, traditions, and methods of farming. Some tours have a chocolate-making component where you might get to try some of their sacred cacao drink, while others take you to hidden waterfalls.
Jaguar Rescue Center
This is an absolute must!!! Visit the Jaguar Rescue Center, a wildlife rehabilitation center in Chiquita that’s doing amazing work for injured animals. Guides who work directly with the animals will teach you all about the residents, which may include monkeys, sloths, margay (pictured below), parrots, toucans, and other jungle creatures. On a tour, you’ll learn how the animals ended up in the Center and their plans for release, while getting up close and personal. Night walks of the release site are also possible, and totally worth it!
Sloth Sanctuary
On the road North or town, this is also a must see. Buttercup is the long-term resident in the visitor center and they have an interesting tour that takes you via canoe on the rover behind the sanctuary.
Manzanillo
Along with Cahuita, an actual Caribbean town that’s almost devoid of tourists. If you’re going to the park nearby, stop by Maxis or a beer, or go upstairs for a killer meal, you’ll feel like a local.
Cahuita National Park
The village of Cahuita, about 16 km north of Puerto Viejo, is worth visiting on a day trip. In addition to soaking up the small-town feel, the national park in Cahuita is a favorite. The 1,097-hectare park is mostly jungle set along the sea. On the flat, sandy trail, you can frequently spot eyelash pit viper snakes, sloths, howler monkeys, white-nosed coatis, and many types of birds. The park also hosts several beaches and a protected coral reef just offshore, which can be snorkeled with a guide.
The Ara Project
The Ara Project is a small organization in Costa Rica working to help reestablish the population of macaw parrots. Their site in Manzanillo works with Great Green Macaws. These birds were once in abundance in the southern Caribbean, but due to habitat loss and a lack of food, they have nearly become extinct. On a tour of the facility, you will be able to get close to these amazing birds.
Bocas del Toro, Panama
If you have an extra few nights in your itinerary and want to see another country, Panama’s Bocas del Toro is close. The Bocas have an even more laid-back Caribbean feel than Puerto Viejo. They offer many white sand beaches with clear water that is great for snorkeling and swimming. Those looking for a party scene will find it in Bocas Town. Shuttles run daily from the Puerto Viejo area.
Where to Eat
Viejo has a huge restaurant scene, with well over 100 establishments to choose from scattered along the road from Viejo to Manzanillo. Because people come to live here from all around the world, you will find a range of international cuisine.
La Pecora Nera
The dinner menu offers classics like homemade ravioli and spaghetti carbonara as well as innovative dishes like starfruit and shrimp carpaccio.
Stashu’s Con Fusion
Stashu’s Con Fusion is amazing and one of Viejo’s best-known restaurants. Dishes come with delicious sauces (a lot of curries but they have other things too). This is a particularly good place for vegetarians and vegans, though meat and seafood choices are also plentiful.
La Nena
No visit to Puerto Viejo is complete without some authentic Caribbean cuisine. La Nena is a simple restaurant on the main road in Playa Cocles that serves up Costa Rican classics with Caribbean flare. Passion fruit salad dressing, rice and beans with coconut milk, and spicy tomato sauces make for an authentic taste.
Restaurante Amimodo
We were attracted by its location right on the beach, but the food was solid as well. We loved our thin crust pizza, but they also have many other dishes with pasta, organic chicken, and local fish.
KOKi Beach Restaurant
This hip, yes, it actually is, restaurant and lounge is in a great location, directly across from the beach in Puerto Viejo. KOKi Beach is usually one of the busiest places in town. The cool vibe draws a diverse crowd looking for a fun spot to kick back. Grab a cocktail in one of the comfy rocking chairs, or enjoy a full meal in the dining room. The menu here is big, with steaks, burgers, pastas, fish dishes, and more.
Tasty Waves Cantina
If you’re checking out Playa Cocles, Tasty Waves is a fun spot to grab a beer and casual food. This chill bar is run by a group of guys from the US and tends to draw a younger crowd. They do happy hour specials daily and have events like trivia night, karaoke night, and movie night. Tuesdays are big with 2-for-1 tacos, and they often have live music. This is my go to to grab a beer.
Bread and Chocolate
They do breakfast all day, or you can get one of their delicious sandwiches made with fresh-baked bread. The roast beef and jerk chicken BBQ sandwiches were memorable. Be sure to save room for dessert. The locals running this place make their own chocolate truffles and cakes with locally grown cacao.
Places to Stay
Hotels in Viejo tend to be smaller, many with four rooms or less. There are no chains and most accommodations are tucked neatly away in the jungle. Many options are typical Caribbean-style bungalows made of wood. These often have window shutters and are open air (no A/C). Those prone to insect bites should make sure that their room is sealed or has mosquito nets over the beds. If you want to be close to amenities, stay in Puerto Viejo center, where everything is within walking distance. If you like a quieter setting, you will probably prefer the peaceful jungle of Cocles, Chiquita, Punta Uva, or Manzanillo.
Be sure that your hotel room is locked when you leave. Break-ins do sometimes happen in the Puerto Viejo area, unfortunately.
Kalunai Hostel
Located in downtown Puerto Viejo, it offers a few affordable private rooms and some dorms. The spaces are clean and have comfortable beds. There’s also an outdoor kitchen and hammocks. $35 or less/night
Hotel Boutique Indalo
This hotel is a good value for the area, especially if you prefer air conditioning. It has modern, comfortable rooms. $65-95/night double occ.
Villa Finca Chica
The villas are nicely spread out around the rainforest-covered property. Although they are located outside town in Playa Cocles, Viejo is only a quick taxi or bike ride away. Each has its own kitchen for cooking in. $90 for 2-person villa.
Caribe Town
This small hotel has a handful of charming palm-thatched bungalows surrounded by gardens as well as a few larger houses nearby. The hosts were very friendly and served one of the best breakfasts we have ever had. $100
La Kukula Lodge
It offers modern, industrial-style rooms as well as a whole house for larger groups. Because the property is situated off the main road and is thickly vegetated, wildlife is often seen. $90-130 double occupancy.
Hotel Banana Azul
Banana Azul is one of the nicer hotels in Puerto Viejo, but it stays true to the area with a laid back feel. Accommodations vary widely, from wooden ocean-view rooms above the restaurant to separate bungalows and new villas with plunge pools. Most rooms don’t have A/C, but the ocean breeze is enough for most people. Banana Azul is located north of town and is adults only. $70-200 double occupancy.
Le Chameleon Boutique Hotel
The only high-end option in the area is Le Chameleon Boutique Hotel. In Playa Cocles, it offers spacious rooms with minimalist décor. The white-washed rooms surround a gorgeous pool with tall palm trees. A major draw is the beach club across the street, where you can have food and drinks delivered to your chair. $175-250 double occupancy.
Puerto Viejo is unlike any other place in Costa Rica. It combines beauty and culture in a way that no other place does. From the pristine beaches, lush rainforest, and plentiful wildlife, to the vibrant, laid back culture, Viejo always leaves us wanting more.